The differents steps

 of the manufacture

of loom Calais

Métier Leavers

The Leavers Channel

To manufacture the lace, we distinguish 4 stages : creation, preparation, manufacture, finishing. From beginning to end of this channels, the complexity of the tasks requires a knowledge and a dexterity from a long experience, which represent the essential qualities of the artists and the workers in this industry.

Some stages like the draft and the mending carried out sometimes at home. From the draft to the consignment 6 months are necessary to effect all the stages of the channels.

The control of this stages is possible thanks to the culture of the tulle.


a) The draft 

The drawer transcribes an idea on a piece of tracing paper or with help from a computer. Several hundred drawings are created each year. The drawer works in a maker but some are self employed.

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b) The putting into card 

Only the drafts accepted by the maker or by the customer are given by the adjuster. He translate the drafts into drawings technically possible. The draft is enlarged 6 or 7 times and transfered on 3 putting into cards sheets

c) The marking 

The pointer registers all the parameters necessary for the realization of the lace. Each position of 


d) The drilling of cardboard 

The drilling of cardboard : this is henceforth carried out by a programmable automaton. Nevertheless, there is still cardboard drillers, which interprets the ready reckoner given by the pointer.

After, all the cardboards are bound by lacement and installed on the “Jacquard” system.

  The manufacture  



a) The extirpation


the extirper extracts the thread remaining in the spools. This task is always entrusted to the apprentice.


b) The “Wheelage”

The “wheeleuse” fills series of 100 spools containing each 100 meters ofthread. This operation requires a large dexterity.

c) The pressing 

The spools press assures the regularity of the thickness pressing under heat series of 3 until 5000 spools.


d) The gatherage 

The gatherer puts winders on the trolleys.This operation is executed either by a human or an automatic machine

e) The “Wappage” 

The “wappeur” prepares the rolls of channels,guimpes and embroiderer.

This can count 1000 threads given on rolls situated under the loom.This operation is realized in parallel with the wheelage.


a) The implementation

the adjuster is in charge of the Jacquard regulation and repairs the 5000 trolleys and spools contained in a loom.


b) The maintenance

The mechanic assures the loom maintenance : change of the gears, adjustement of the basting …

c) The Leavers looms

The tullist is the Leavers loom operator. He imitates the hand-made lace by a system of interlacements. He sees to the perfect execution of the lace. He looks after and assures the good working of his loom.


a) The repairing “à l’écru”

After the piece of loom visit, the mender “ à l’écru” marks and repairs the holes risen during the manufacture.


b) The dye and the dressing

The colourist washes, launders, dyes and dresses the pieces of lace in accordance with the maker’s need and according to the presented possibilities by the matters.


c) The repairing and the dressing

After a second visit, the dressing-mender realizes the last mends.


d) The fraying,the flaking and the cutting

the frayer, the flaker and the cutter-machine carried out their operations in accordance with the kind of loom. The cutting is also assured by a machine called the “dipping”.


e) The flaking, the cutting and the overembroidring

Sometimes, the laces for the making of the “Haute Couture3 dresses are embroidered. This operation is carried out on cornely and Beyroux machines. This is useful to entrance the loom accentuating some patterns by the use of ties, thick gold threads, sequins, pearls…



f) The folding


After the last visit, the folder puts together the pieces of lace in accordance with the needs of customers.

g) The sampling

The sampler cuts samples, which will be part of maker’s collection. 

h) The expedition

This operation contains the packaging, the labelling and the expedition of orders

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